A Taste of Dordogne
A Taste of Dordogne
One of the few regions in France I haven’t yet visited is the Dordogne, east of Bordeaux’s Right Bank (Pomerol and St. Emilion). Humans resided here over 35,000 years ago, Neanderthals, then Cro-Magnons; the famous Lascaux caves, dating back some 17,000 years, display extraordinary drawings of swift-moving horses, bulls, and other prehistoric animals in action. Reading the mystery novels of Martin Walker—set in the villages, river valleys and rolling countryside of this picturesque haven, especially its heart: the Périgord, noted for truffles and foie gras—has whetted my appetite and my wine palate. I’m keen to get there soon.
Author/journalist Walker makes the region come alive in his colorful and mouth-watering mystery series featuring Bruno, Chief of Police, local gourmand, oenophile and, not least, a very cool and compassionate officer of the law. Centered in the fictional village of Saint-Denis, peopled with warmly appealing characters and a particularly fetching Basset hound named Balzac, the books are replete with fascinating local history, reference to current world conflicts (Ukraine, Middle East) and international villains wreaking murder and mayhem—adventures deliciously interspersed with gastronomic pleasures of the region.
In Dark Vineyard, Bruno prepares a truffled omelette at an alfresco dinner for friends at his country cottage (p. 175). Slicing a “pebble-sized truffle” very thin, he
tossed a large lump of duck fat into his huge frying pan. When it was hot enough, he used a small press to add the juice of two cloves of garlic, poured in the eggs [avec truffle bits] and began to twirl the large pan…. “When it’s done we let it rest a moment while you take your seats,” said Bruno, darting out to the barbecue to prepare the next course. He was back in less than a minute, and paraded in front of his guests the golden-yellow omelette rolled into the shape of a fat baguette sprinkled with flakes of parsley. He sliced and served it at the table.
“My first omelette aux truffes,” said Jacqueline.
Bruno serves the omelette with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, a hit with his guests. The meal continues with gamebirds paired with a 1989 Cos d’Estournel, one of Bordeaux’s finest reds, and then a red Burgundy with the cheese course. Quite a feast.
As in all thrillers, hero Bruno gets shot at by international criminals, is charmed/seduced by interesting women, all the while enmeshed in dastardly plots that he is key to untangling. But there is always at least one delectable meal, and descriptions of harvest feasts that make a reader hungry and thirsty. Deftly written, with enlightening bits of history woven in, these are mysteries best read with a glass in hand.
Bruno is most fond of the local Bergerac wines, largely made from Bordeaux grape varieties: merlot and cabernets for red, sauvignon blanc, sémillon and a sprightly splash of muscadelle for the whites. Bergerac’s best-known wine is the sweet white Monbazillac. The Château de Monbazillac, in the town of that name, is a major attraction for tours and tastings.
Bergerac wines are not widely available in the U.S., though the Bélingard Bergerac Blanc I found at Total Wine ($17) was dry, balanced and most agreeable with my pan-grilled trout filets. This wine appears in another book in the series, A Château Under Siege, at a lunch Bruno has prepared. The winemaker, explains Bruno, “maintains that he is the proud owner of the oldest vineyard in the region,” with an ancient stone seat where Druids held sacrifices. Bruno continues, “The name Bélingard comes from the old Gaul words for ‘garden of the sun-god.’ And there are ancient vines nearby.”
If you should happen to run across the well-regarded red Chateau de Tiregand, referenced in other books of the series, by all means snap it up to go with your veal, lamb, or roast chicken.
I heartily recommend this engaging series. The Bruno mysteries provide a highly entertaining read, but be warned—they’ll propel you to the kitchen or your favorite restaurant forthwith!