North Carolina Wines
North Carolina red wines have jumped in quality since the 2005 vintage. Young vines now have a little age on them. Winemakers have had the luxury of letting the grapes hang a little longer on the vine without the threat of devastating hurricane rains. The extra ripeness offsets the naturally high acidity of most mid-Atlantic reds—acidity that, in proper balance with fruit, gives the wines structure, length and the potential to evolve with real flavor interest. The state’s first official appellation, or AVA (American Viticultural Area) is the Yadkin Valley, a north/south strip of rolling hills in the center of the state. Here is the greatest concentration of North Carolina wineries, the total number statewide now approaching 75. In 2000 there were 15. I taste mid-Atlantic wines often. Here are some of the wines I have especially liked: Flint Hill Vineyards Syrah 2005, Yadkin Valley, $16. When you open this Syrah, let it air a while. It seems a bit high in acidity at first but with air the fruit blooms in the glass and becomes very attractive. Good with lighter meats such as roast chicken, pork, veal; higher acidity cuts richness and complements it nicely. McRitchie 2006 Pinot Gris, Yadkin Valley, $14. Fragrant and very well-balanced, this Pinot Gris is mostly dry, with appealing richness but good acidity that makes it lively and very attractive to drink. Small production, mostly available at the winery--worth a weekend visit! Also check out Sean McRitchie's dry Hard Cider and Ring of Fire 2007 red blend.--which I recently tasted and found it wonderfully juicy and smooth! Childress: Trio 2007, $15 Because of the Easter Freeze in 2007, winemakers had few white grapes. Childress winemaker Mark Friszolowski took what he had in white varieties at harvest time and made this charming white. Mostly chardonnay and viongnier with a little semillon. 2005 Reserve Chardonnay, $25. A lovely, balanced chardonnay with appealing fruit and a nice touch of oak. People who think they don't like chardonnay should try this one. 2005 Cabernet Franc, $18--more proof that cab franc does well in North Carolina. Nice punch of fruit--great for lighter meats. 2005 Reserve Merlot, $25. Winemaker Mark Friszolowski does a great job in making wines with excellent balance, wines that show fruit intensity without being overly tannic. This is a wonderful wine for roast chicken, turkey, duckling or pork loin. Raffaldini. The new tasting room, Villa Raffaldini, which looks for all the world like a Tuscan villa (including landscaping), is a must on your next visit to the Yadkin Valley. If possible, try the 2007 Vermentino (terrific) and the 2006 Montepulciano, one of the best reds I've had from North Carolina vineyards. Both very limited. Also try the Pinot Grigio and excellent red blend, Bello Misto. And our neighbors... Keswick Vineyards near Charlottesville, VA won several medals in the 2009 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, notably the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon--which also won the 2009 Governor's Cup in Virginia. Tiger Mountain Vineyards 2007 Petit Manseng, Georgia. Dry and crisp, this steely, mineral-accented white is quite good, as versatile with foods, especially shellfish and seafood, as Italy's Pinot Grigio. Similar in flavor and style, in fact, but with its own character. The petit manseng grape appears to be well-suited to mid-Atlantic winegrowing regions......so growers in Virginia and North Carolina should give it a try. See also cellar sleuthing....below |
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Results
of recent cellar sleuthing....for B.E.'s comments on aging, see Cellar Notes |
© Barbara Ensrud