WineWise: BE's Discoveries

Cellar browsing turns up some very interesting finds**--really good stuff, as well as wines I really should have pulled out and opened long before--like white Burgundies from 1985 and '86 that I was "saving" for the right occasion. What happened? Usually other choices intervened and I let them get away from me--drat! Not, however, '85 reds--a whole 'nother story!
This section also includes other "discoveries," including restaurant wines, dinners with friends, wine list values and such.....also wines from North Carolina and the mid-Atlantic.

Questions or comments? BE's email: b_e@bewinewise.com

**In re-organizing my cellar some wonderful wines have surfaced. I'm often skeptical of anything older than 1990, but so far the wines
I've opened have amazed me! Most are from California--in the era when the wines were more traditionally made, ripe but well-balanced
with excellent concentration and depth. Even regular, non-Reserve releases, have aged well--in fact sometimes with more flavor
liveliness than the riper, more heavily oaked and extracted Reserve-style wines. As in these....

Hogue Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon 1992, Yakima Valley, Washington. Amazingly deep color, vivid blackberry and black currant flavors. Very smooth with no signs of fading but may be right at peak. Plenty of flavor now; excellent (12.5%). Note: real cork for this wine, unlike the black plugs used in 1995--those wines did not age well and Hogue no longer uses those closures. 12/07

Chateau Souverain 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley. Still dark and rich in color, with well-integrated blackberry flavors, typical of Alexander Valley fruit; suprisingly lively, with good acidity and thoroughly mellowed tannins which made it smooth and silky. Probably three to five years ahead of it. Just the regular Cabernet, probably around $10 or $11 a bottle. Current Souverain 2004Cabernet $17-22. 12/07

Stag's Leap Wine Cellars 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. The regular release from Stag's Leap, mostly from bought grapes but perhaps a bit from the estate vineyards. We decanted it, as there was sediment. Color was a medium dark brick red; the wine quite evolved, with old cab aromas and flavors that really opened up with air, showing earthiness, worn leather, dried plums. Very nice with rare roast beef. I think we caught it just in time. 12/07

Stellenryck 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa. A well-made Cabernet can age well even when grown in unexpected places. This 15-year-old Cab from cool coastal regions of the Cape Peninsula still had good color and vitality of flavor--black cherry, a bit of toast, smooth finish; certainly a good bet for roast lamb. 11/07

North Carolina Wines
I try to taste mid-Atlantic wines often. Here are some of the the wines I especially liked:
McRitchie 2006 Pinot Gris, Yadkin Valley, $14. Fragrant and very well-balanced, this Pinot Gris is mostly dry, with appealing richness but good acidity that makes it lively and very attractive to drink. Small production, mostly available at the winery--worth a weekend visit! Also check out Sean McRitchie's dry Hard Cider and Ring of Fire red blend.
Childress: 2005 Reserve Chardonnay, $25. A lovely, balanced chardonnay with appealing fruit and a nice touch of oak. People who think they don't like chardonnay should try this one. 2005 Cabernet Franc, $18--more proof that cab franc does well in North Carolina. Nice punch of fruit--great for lighter meats.
2005 Reserve Merlot, $25. Winemaker Mark Friszolowski does a great job in making wines with excellent balance, wines that show fruit intensity without being overly tannic. This is a wonderful wine for roast chicken, turkey, duckling or pork loin.
RayLen released an excellent red blend in 2007: the 2005 Eagle's Select, $25. Made mostly of merlot (63%) with additions of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and other varieties. Well-balanced and flavorsome, it's a handsome red for filet mignon or prime rib.
Old North State Chardonnay 2003--one of the best Chardonnays of the day. I was very interested to taste this wine since I was on the judging panel that gave it a Double Gold in the NC State Fair Wine Competition two years ago--and happily surprised by how good it is! Well-made Chardonnays are often at their best in their third or fourth year, and this one has held up beautifully--due, of course, to the fine balance and excellent fruit. And it is dry! I would say this is a style NC winemakers should go for. Old North State is under new ownership--they should give serious attention to this wine and how it was made. The blended red, Prelude 2005, mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot, also shows promise.
Other NC Chardonnays I liked: McRitchie 2006 Yadkin Valley, excellent fruit, lively balance with a nice light touch of oak.
Sauvignon Blanc 2006: So far, sauvignon blanc has not been very successful in North Carolina, but both Childress and Shelton Vineyards seem to have a handle on it. The 2006s from each are dry and crisp, similar in style and quite good.
Viognier: The mid-Atlantic (Va, northern Ga., NC) appears accommodating to viognier. Fragrant with hints of tropical fruit and sweet honeysuckle. The 2006 Viogniers are fresh and appealing, particularly those from Childress, Hanover Park and Stony Mountain. Spring frost wiped out viognier for some so there may be less in the market than ususal.
Rockhouse Cabernet Franc 2005. Solid cab franc with lively fruit, somewhat in the style of Loire Valley versions, around Chinon and Bourgueil--not quite has wiry as these, with softer tannic edge. Rockhouse '05 Merlot is a little tart with acidity, but possessed enough fruit to be quite good.
Grassy Creek 2005 Red Barn Blend. This blend from Elkin, NC , made from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sangiovese, is lively and attractive--gets better with air.
Hanover Park 2003 Michael's Blend, a multi-blend of red varieties, aged in used oak; quite smooth and attractive with an appealing lift at the end -- a punch of chambourcin, I think. Hanover has also produced a blend labeled 1897 (year the farmhouse where co-owners Amy and Michael Helton live was built). I found this blend of cabernets and merlot, aged 52 months in oak, to be smooth and concentrated, with interesting complexity; an excellent match for prime rib or filet mignon. $29 a bottle; only 110 cases were made
Elkin Creek 2006 Sangiovese. From a new winery in northern Yadkin Valley producing some impressive (and expensive!) reds. The 2006 Sangiovese is perhaps the best Sangio I've tasted from NC grapes, with good rich color and lively flavor. Elkin Creek 2004 Rossa, $20-24, is an appealing blend of sangiovese, barbera and merlot--worth trying with grilled meats this summer. Elkin Creek 2005 Barbera, $38, is alread sold out; only 200 cases made.
Brushy Creek Merlot 2005. From vineyards on Brushy Mountain, this was one of the best Merlots of the day--soft, round, with ripe berry flavors. Very drinkable. Also liked: Shelton 2005 Merlot, tastier now than a year ago.
Stonefield Synchronicity 2005, a plushy blend of syrah, mourvèdre and barbera (really glad to see that the Italian variety barbera seems to do well in NC).
Syrah. Several wineries make Syrah and syrah blends. Some lack the thrust of fruit Americans find appealing in Shiraz wines, but others have a little more punch, such as Shelton 2005 Kudzu Block, which is spicy and peppery.
Other good 2005 Syrahs: Stony Knoll Vyds, Childress, Stony Mountain, Flint Hill, RayLen Shiraz, Rag Apple Lassie '04

And our neighbor, Virginia...
LaGrange 2005 Cabernet Franc, $21. Surprisingly ripe--can this be all Virginia fruit? Black cherry, blackberry are the aroma and flavor notes, very attractive.
Barboursville 2004 Cabernet Franc Reserve, $22.50. Wonderful cherry and redcurrant flavors; well-made and well-balanced, fresh and appetizing. Lovely with roast pork or lamb.
Oakencroft's 2004 Reserve Merlot from Virginia is a classic! Beautifully structured, elegantly balanced with rich blackcurrant flavors. It's a natural for roast turkey on Thanksgiving--and other holiday meals. It is drinking well now--dark and rich, with soft, ripe tannins. I found it even tastier the second night, which means it would benefit from decanting to aerate it quickly. Should be excellent with lamb or duck.
The fine balance gives it excellent potential for improving in bottle over the next 3 to 5 years. An effort worth emulating!
Oakencroft 2005 Chardonnay, Monticello appellation. Overbig, overoaked Chardonnays, step aside.I hear a lot of complaints about them. Virginia makes elegant, very appealing Chardonnays--balanced, with a judicious use of oak (the best ones through barrel fermenting, barrel aging, not oak chips). Oakencroft's 2005 is delightful
and worth a search.
See also cellar sleuthing....below

Results of recent cellar sleuthing....for B.E.'s comments on aging, see Cellar Notes

Oakencroft 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, Monticello appellation, Virginia. Well, who would have thought? Yes, Virginia, Virginia wines do age....and nicely, too. I remember this Cabernet when it came out--impressive structure but tannic and angular. On a recent evening with lamb pilaf I opened it and was delighted. The tannins have mellowed, the fruit is very forward--briary black currants and the right touch of spicy oak--quite lively, if a little short on the finish. But really tasty and enjoyable--nice time to catch it.

Merry Edwards 2000 Pinot Noir, Olivet Lane, Russian River. We had this in my winter wine class at Duke. Always one of Merry Edwards richest Pinots, the 2000 Olivet Lane has mellowed into a smooth and silky, deliciously complex wine, still quite lively and lovely for drinking now. We longed for braised quail or roast duckling to complement it.

Merryvale Profile 1987, Napa Valley. Opened in a recent wine class focussing on Bordeaux and Meritage style blends. An excellent blend of mostly cabernet sauvignon, very well-balanced, deeply structured, with complex aromas that have evolved into a very appealing bouquet. A great example of how aging can bring a wine into most alluring harmony.
Current vintages of Merryvale Profile, such as 2003, are priced from $90 to 110 a bottle.

Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 1983, York Creek. We were quite impressed with this twenty-three year-old Cabernet with dinner the other night (7/28). Smooth, but with plenty of fruit left and a very complex bouquet, it surprised us that night--and even more the next night! Just shows what a little air can do--or a lot. Sometimes it will take a wine over the hill, but in this case it brought it to just the right point to enjoy. York Creek Vyd on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley used to be a prime source for Ridge Cabs and Zin, never the most expensive but always sound and good. This wine aged well because it is so well-balanced...and only 12.6% alcohol! With 2% cab franc and 10% merlot, winemaker Paul Draper predicted it would go up to eight years---well, Paul, wish you could have been here to taste it with us. Fine job.

Chateau Palmer 1981, Margaux, Bordeaux. Not dead, but definitely over the hill. It lost a little of the early funkiness (not bad for a 25-year-old wine) over the next hour but did not improve really. Faded brick color, old-red nose, a bit oxidized with madeira-like aroma and flavor a little too prominent. I should apologize to the wine--should have opened it 7 to 10 years earlier. Chateau Palmer is one of my favorite Bordeaux.
Jordan Vineyards 1981, Alexander Valley, Sonoma. Outstanding. What a contrast. The Jordan '81 still has vibrant color and very lively fruit. Very well-balanced, as Jordan Cab has been from the get-go. At 12.8% alcohol, it had a tad more body than the Palmer but the proportion and concentration of fruit are impressive, with blackberry scents and flavors. Perfectly smooth and at a very fine moment in its life. Obviously some years ahead of it, but I wouldn't wait any longer to enjoy it. Both wines stored in the same cellar under same conditions. The difference in my view is that the tannin and wood in the Palmer outlasted the fruit. A very interesting comparative tasting!
And a very lovely evening with good friends.

Château Figeac 1979, Saint-Emilion. One of the premier estates of Bordeaux's right bank in Saint-Emilion.
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 1986, St. Julien, Haut-Médoc. One of the top classified growths of the Médoc. Two very fine reds that went beautifully with
smoked grilled tenderloin, at a small winter gathering of friends. Both decanted, and both wines changed a lot in the glass--not surprising after such lengthy confinement. Actually, the '79 Figeac eventually bloomed into the prettier of the two--very beautiful, in fact, less oaky, lovely fruity aromas. Very glad we caught it at this stage!
The Ducru '86 seemed a little over-oaked, which smothered the fruit somewhat--perhaps just in a rather closed point in its evolution--interesting cedar, earth, leathery notes in aroma but fruit a bit lacking on that occasion

Rosemount Balmoral Syrah 1995, Australia. Really gorgeous now, but still youthful, with more years ahead to develop further. Quite evolved, with softened tannins and complex aromas of wood, earthniness, roasted meat and rather high floral notes of violet. Perfect for roast beef or lamb. Glad I put away another bottle!

Beaune 1995 Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus, Grèves Côte de Beaune, Bouchard Père et Fils. Outstanding! A beautifully evolved Beaune, with flavors of cherry, cinnamon and smoke. L'Enfant Jésus is one of the prized vineyards of the Côte d'Or, noted for its velvety texture. Lovely with braised quail.
As was Robert Sinskey 1991 Pinot Noir Carneros. Still loaded with fruit but round and mellow, smooth and rich. Quite a knockout! And extremely well-balanced, only 12.5% alcohol (well, maybe 13)--Give us more like this!!

Matanzas Creek Merlot 1987, Sonoma County. Oh, boy, this was good. Not many Merlots hang in there for 17 years...and it could go a few more, I think. Rich with blackberry, black plum flavors and cedary notes, all nicely integrated. It needed a good 35 minutes of airing to show its silkiness--and proved excellent with lamb pilaf.

Mazzocco Cabernet Sauvignon 1994, Sonoma. The '94 reds from Napa and Sonoma just don't quit!! They've been terrific since first released in 1995/96---and they remain delicious. Wonderful drinking! Tannins have mellowed on this big boy; the wine is smooth as silk with plenty of berry/plum fruit and cedary flavors. [spring '04]

Gundlach-Bundschu 1988 Cabernet Franc, Rhinefarm Vyd.,Sonoma. G-B, one of California's oldest wineries (dates to 1880s) makes some very solid reds, often excellent value. I wasn't sure this 15-year-old would still be good; in fact, it was excellent, still vibrant with cab franc's black cherry fruit and a delight with grilled sirloin. Other G-B wines to look for: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Pinot Noir--structured to age but usually nicely balanced for early drinking. [spring '04]

Mayacamas 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. An amazing testament to the aging process!! The '84 vintage was spotty, but mountain vineyards sometimes exceed ripeness and quality in a lesser vintage. Mayacamas, atop Mt Veeder, produces consistently fine Cabernets--but if you want glorious drinking you have to wait . Give them time and they'll turn into a beauty like this 1984, with a bouquet of ripe berries and layers of dark fruit and oak, wonderful clean, bright plummy fruit, still vibrant and enticing. Superbly balanced, this wine was an exciting catch à point--perfect maturity. What a joy to drink, with its elegance, long appealing aftertaste--and here's the kicker: 12.8 to no more than 13% alcohol, proof the grapes don't have to be 25+ Brix at harvest to produce a classic. My thanks, and a toast, to owner/winemaker Bob Travers!!