Cellar Selections
Wines in this section are those that need or will improve with age. Some, as noted, may be quite drinkable now, but have the structure to age for at least the minimum period recommended, and often well beyond the stated maximum.
Note:  Prices are Suggested Retail Price (srp), may vary in some markets
 

The Delights of  Well-Aged Wines:   see below *

Syrah/Shiraz One of the world's  top reds--Penfolds Grange--a Shiraz from best lots, many from venerable older vines in Barossa Valley and other parts of South Australia.  The 2001 Grange is a fabulous rendition of this fabled wine (prices range nationally from $270 to $295 a bottle), largely because it is so smooth and accessible right now. I have participated in Grange vertical tastings going back to the first vintage in 1951--none, even the oldest, were beyond drinkability. The structure is there to hold for decades--but enticing flavors of dark ripe summer berries in the 2001--blackberry, boysenberry, blueberry, black raspberry--mingled with overtones of licorice, tanned leather and sweet oak, seem  to envelop the tannins and make the wine stunning to drink right now.            The Grange, of course, may be Australia's best Shiraz--though some dispute it. And certainly a few offer a nice challenge--such as Clarendon Hills,  which produces limited  bottlings of  black, opaque Shiraz--incredibly ripe and concentrated (have your toothbrush handy). These wines are beyond bold--in fact, if you want to be bowled over, you might check them out but the small quantities make them hard to find. 2005 Single vineyards, $65-70:  Baker's Gully, Liandra, Moritz, Brookman, Higganbotham.             For my money (a little less lofty), and ready for current drinking, seek out McWilliams Coonawarra Shiraz 2002, $28.  Here's a great example of how a more balanced  Shiraz evolves. At 14.5% alcohol it's plenty big but is loaded with juicy mulberry-blackberry flavors, no trace of astringency and a long smooth finish.  Meaty, with accents of white pepper Taltarni Heathcote Shiraz 2004, Australia, $34.  Taltarni makes vigorous, intensely flavored Shiraz in Victoria, northeast of  Melbourne. The Taltarni Pyrenees, $17-18, is quite drinkable now; the Heathcote is more muscular--you can drink it with hearty foods now, but in two to three years it should be beautifully mellowed.  Lay some down, and hold, then enjoy! USA Syrah/Shiraz Qupé 2006 Syrah, Central Coast, $14-16.50.  Qupé winery was a pioneer with syrah in California, beginning in the early eighties and now produces several Syrahs. Consistently an excellent value, the '06 Central Coast is a blend of mostly syrah, with 5% grenache and 1% counoise. Bright with forward fruit and spicy accents, it drinks well now but, as with lighter northern Rhônes (Saint-Joseph, Croze-Hermitage), can easily go 7 to 8 years. Lay away a few...and see.

Wines for current or future pleasure:

Trefethen 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley, $29.  Rich, balanced and smooth, this excellent Merlot can only gain in complexity and depth within 3 to five years (say, by 2010), but it drinks well now, too. With 17% cabernet sauvignon, a pleasing dash of malbec and petit verdot, it's a natural roast duck or lamb shank.

Frog's Leap 2005 Merlot, Napa Valley, $34.  Score another one for Merlot--this one is impressive for its ripe black berries flavors and fine balance. It has the structure to improve with a few years of cellaring--say, 3 to 5--but can nicely handle duck, lamb or roast pork even now.   Would love to see what would develop, however, given the time to work a little magic.

Red Blends

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Meritage, Washington, $48.  Mostly cabernet sauvignon from Columbia Valley, with malbec, merlot, petit verdot as part of the blend. An excellent Bordeaux-style blend with lively acidity and fine balance; will reward cellaring to 2015 and beyond.
 
Ecluse Ensemble 2005, Paso Robles, $38. A blend of the five Bordeaux grapes, this lurxuriant and seductive red is stuffed with fruit, but has the depth and structure to age superbly. It recently won a unanimous Gold at the 2008 San Francisco Chronicle wine competition, as well as Best of Class. Not easy to find; check it out online:  www.eclusewines.com

 

*Musings on aging wine.....* A question I'm often asked:  how do you know which wines to age, and which ones won't? Not a quick answer, actually. Of course it's obvious with some wines--red Bordeaux in good vintages, California cabernets that cost more than $10-12 a bottle....serious syrahs (like Penfolds Grange--see below), but less exalted ones also. Most red wines that are balanced will certainly improve with bottle age, anywhere from 2-3 years for moderately priced ($12 to $18) merlots, pinot noirs, syrahs to 5, 7, 10 or 15 years for similarly priced cabernets, bigger syrahs and merlots, cabernet franc, sangiovese, claret blends. Even wines meant to drink young will often hold or improve with a few years on them. Recently I opened a 2005 Barbera with robust and concentrated flavors. It was a little tough and tannic the first night, but the next night it was perfect--smooth and round, the tannins mellowed, the fruit more forward.        Some wine drinkers, however, like vigorous, muscular reds and like the tannin that gives the wines an edge. Chacun à son gout--each to his own taste.  Yet I've had more than one person in my wine classes say to me--"'Gee, I really like big young reds, but after the first sip or two I find  I don't like them as much. Why is that?"  It's because with the first sip you get the rich, ripe fruit of a big wine....but then the tannin comes up hard, builds on the palate and the wine just can't give any more--it needs aging to evolve and give more of what it promised. See  B.E.'s Discoveries        Time in bottle does what nothing else can. Over time, whether it's two or three years, or 10, chemical changes occur--tannins soften and precipitate out, pigments darken and then lighten, creating sediment. I always decant wines 10 years old or older. But then I often decant very young wines when they seem stiff and tannic--the aeration can open them up and soften the tannins--aging them in a sense. This is why when you open a young red that is too young and tight to really enjoy, it may taste better the next night....or the next. One that recently did:  Domaine de Fontenille 2005; even a simple red like this Côtes du Luberon from Provence. A little bitter and not very likeable when we opened it--but the next night it was quite Rhonish: black pepper, roasted flavors...and much more drinkable!            Try it.

   




PINOT NOIR 

Merry Edwards 2005 Pinot Noir, Russian River, $42. Outstanding. I like the balance of fruit, oak and alcohol on this wine, an excellent 2005, supple and flavory now, with dark berry concentration and a lovely lingering fruit finish. Excellent now with grilled or pan-seared duck breast and, as Merry herself recommends, topped with "a blackberry reduction, "  but this Pinot will undoubtedly improve with a few years of bottle age, becoming even more aromatic and silky in texture.

Also very much liked the 2004 Olivet Lane, which has great acid and structure balancing the juicy fruit without being too tannic. Well worth aging, however; these wines develop beautifully--see B.E.'s Discoveries

Pinot Noir for Winter Feasts        In addition to Merry Edwards' excellent Pinots (above), a recent tasting of Pinot Noirs also turned up some very delicious ones: Fess Parker 2005, Santa Barbara, $24. Fess Parker's son Eli is winemaker at this estate in Santa Ynez Valley, and making some excellent Pinots. This is likely the most drinkable now--lively with berry and cinnamon flavors, but such vineyard designates as Bien Nacido, $45, and Ashley's Vyd, $53, will reward cellaring. A recent tasting of the 2000 Marcella's Vineyard proved this, with its ample spicy fruit, fine structure, juicy flavors--smooth now and quite rich. Clos du Val 2004, Carneros, $24.  Lots of flavors in this one--blackberry, a hint of cinnamon, and expansive ripe-berry aromas. The fruit becomes quite juicy with air and has a long, smooth finish. Willowbrook 2005 Morelli Ranch Russian River Valley, $42   A warm cherry color but with big black cherry aromas that leap from the glass. The fat flavors are braced with a nice spine of tannin, but not overdone. This wine drinks well now, but should be even better next year with extra time in bottle to develop. La Crema 2005: 3 quite good ones from different appellations, all $34:  Anderson Valley, Los Carneros, Russian River Valley.  These are all quite good, the Anderson being the lightest (and perhaps the best with turkey); the other two ae a little fatter and more intensely fruity--very tasty, all. Robert Stemmler 2004 Carneros, $44. Big aromas of cherry with hints of strawberry, cinnamon and other spices. On the palate, an added note of briary red currant makes the wine quite appetizing.      More to come....

Zins for hedonists..... Murphy-Goode 2004 Liar's Dice, Alexander Valley, $20.  Huge, but densely fruity; won a Gold in S.F. Chronicle 2007 Wine Competition. Sin Zin 2006, Alexander Valley Vyds, $20, Alexander Valley, Sonoma. If the label doesn't seduce you, the wine in the bottle will--with its luxuriant ripe flavors and heady aroma of black raspberries and plum. Big and handsome, as this wine always is--powerful without being overwhelming. Haywood Estate Los Chamizal 2005, $20. This mountain vineyard in southern Sonoma produced a blockbuster in 2005--black cherry, ripe plum flavors tinged with chocolate; better with a well-aged cheese than the main course. Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut 2005 Zin, Dry Creek Valley, $23. Rich, bold but well-balanced--if richly sauced or herty grilled meat is on your menu, this might be the wine for it. Old Vines.   Sonoma has some of the oldest stands of  Zinfandel  in existence. These wines don't yield much--I'm reminded of what Spencer Tracy said about Katherine Hepburn in "Pat and Mike" -- "ain't much meat on her, but what's there is cherce." That's how it is with these 60, 80, 100-year-old vines, gnarled and thick, yielding up nectarlike juice that lends unique character to wines labeled "Old Vine."  The first winery actually to use Old Vines on the label was Dry Creek Vineyards.  Dry Creek Old Vine Zinfandel 2005, Dry Creek Valley,  $25,  which is nicely packed with blackberry and black cherry fruit.                                NOTE:   prices are suggested retail; they may often be found for less.