Bacchic Reflections"In Europe we thought of wine as something as healthy and normal as food and also
"The trouble with really fine wine is that it tastes so good that it spoils you for anything cheap, all the ordinary stuff you drank before because it was affordable." |
| Articles by B.E. see B.E. in print Wines for aging: see B.E. Cellar Notes NC Wine Discoveries? see B.E.'s Discoveries or: An Interview with Childress winemaker at www.appellationamerica.com |
| Wine Buy(s) of the Week Starborough 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand, $13**+. From the cool region of Marlborough, comes this dry, zesty, and very tasty Sauvignon. Great for fried shellfish and seafood pastas. Excellent value. Murphy-Goode 'The Fumé' 2007, Alexander Valley, $12.99. Appealing roundness in this Sauvignon comes from a bit of time in French oak, including some of it barrel-fermented. Not as oaky as Murphy-Goode's Reserve Fumé--which makes it great for oysters on the half-shell but also oysters roasted or fried. See more Sauvignon Blancs below Cline 'Ancient Vines' Zinfandel, California, $12.99-15.99** Portions of this wine comes from vineyards planted by Italian and Portuguese immigrants over 100 years ago, lending a depth of character to the younger grapes that make up the rest of the blend. Raspberry and blackberry flavors with soft tannins that make it lovely for drinking now--great choice for summer grilling. |
| Some terrific whites.... Martinsancho 2006 Verdejo, $12.99 This dry Spanish white wine, named for its grape grown in the Rueda region, has lovely tropical fruit flavors, lively and crisp, very long in the aftertaste. Fresh bright fruit is excellent for fish and seafood, including seafood pastas. |
| Sauvignon Blancs/Fumé Blancs I seem to be constantly reaching for a Sauvignon with summer foods--so drinkable, so versatile with lots of warm-weather foods and all but unbeatable with seafood and shellfish. There are loads of good ones stocking the wine shelves from 2006 and 2007 vintages. The younger ones have more zest, but many '06s have plenty of flavor--such as Patianna 2006, $18, a Sauvignon Blanc from a bio-dynamic vineyard in Mendocino County. It's packed with bright citrus and mineral accents, quite Sancerre-like, in fact. Outstanding with shellfish, including oysters, fresh or fried. Great with herbed goat cheese. Chateau St. Jean La Petite Etoile 2006, Sonoma, $14-17. This vineyard consistently delivers Sauvignon Blanc of excellent character and richness that nicely complements sauteed white fish, such as flounder, snapper or mahi-mahi. Rodney Strong 2006 Charlotte' Home Estate, Alexander Valley, $14. Fragrant and crisp, the Charlotte's Home Sauvignon is popular for somewhat broader flavors of melon, citrus and a hint of pear. Light enough for more deicate fish such as sole, flounder and white perch. Kim Crawford 2007, Marlborough, NZ, $17 srp but can be found for less. Another excellent white from Kim Crawford--bright and crisp, with enticingly bold flavors of citrus. Frog's Leap 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, $18. A favorite of mine for its complex aromas of citrus blossoms and stone (some of that Rutherford 'dust,' perhaps), and excellent balance. Very long and wholesome in the finish. Lockwood 2007, Monterey, $11. Cool regions of Monterey County along California's central coast produce very good Sauvignons, the Lockwood with grapefruit and lemon citrus as well as mineral notes. |
©Barbara Ensrud