Wines for Winter Feasts 2023

I always start such evenings with a sparkling wine, and a toast to the safe and happy gathering. Check out the good values in Cremant de Bourgogne ($20-$25), or go with your favorite Prosecco—or Champagne if price is no object. I love the grower Champagnes from smaller producers, especially Gaston Chiquet, Larmandier, Marie de Moy.

ROAST TURKEY AND GAME BIRDS

You want wines that not only pair well with roast turkey, but can handle the varied flavors of side dishes on the table. Light reds are great with roast turkey. My first pick is a medium-bodied Pinot Noir, such as Elk Cove, Omeara or Willamette Valley Vineyards, that can nicely complement the flavor varieties of sides. This year’s Beaujolais Nouveau 2023 is also a choice in red—especially if you give it a light chill which livens the fruit.

If white is your preference I heartily recommend a dry Riesling or Viognier, or Pinot Gris, which is richer than Pinot Grigio, better perhaps with the variety of flavors at the meal. Oregon makes lovely ones, such as Elk Cove, Cooper Mountain or King Estate.

MEAT AND GAME

Roast beef, roast lamb, beef or venison steaks:  O, the myriad choices—from red Bordeaux, California Cabernet, Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Saint-Joseph to Barolo, Barbaresco, Ribera del Duero, Reserve Malbec—the best you can afford.  (And here’s where to bring out those well-aged reds you’ve socked away a few years! See Cellar Sleuthing.)

Roast Duck, Goose, other gamebirds:  Rich Pinot Noirs shine with gamebirds—red Burgundies—Volnay, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny—Pinots from Russian River Valley or Santa Rita Hills, Reserve Pinots from Oregon.

DESSERT

What goes best with pumpkin pie? I opt for a glass of tawny port—or maybe just a stiff black coffee!

Have a safe and festive holiday! —B.E.