A “Noble” Italian Red

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

 “Noble” indeed. Or at least the potential to be. This Italian red, made predominantly from sangiovese, comes from vineyards surrounding the charming hilltop village of Montepulciano in Tuscany. Prominent in medieval and Rensaissance eras, it is somewhat unsung today, very much in the shadow of its neighbors, Chianti Classico to the north, and especially Brunello di Montalcino to the south. In recent years, however, there is new emphasis on quality from the better producers, with even higher standards set to kick in by 2025.

I pulled one recently to accompany osso buco (braised veal shank, one of my favorite Italian dishes) for dinner with friends. I wanted a red with character and personality, but without the heft and tannin of bigger reds like Brunello, Barolo or Barbaresco. The 1994 Vino Nobile Tre Rose La Villa—decanted, of course—was at peak maturity: aromatic, smooth, long in finish with rich, dark cherry flavors and a hint of licorice that was very appealing; a great complement, we all agreed, to the savory and delectable osso buco.

Vino Nobile is aged two years before it comes on the market, three years for riserva. Lighter tannins and good acidity lend it a supple freshness in its early years, making it a genial match for many Italian meat dishes.  It is NOT to be confused with the grape of the same name, montepulciano, a simpler wine (often quite good!) from other regions such as Abruzzo on the Adriatic coast (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo) and parts of southern Italy.

Good Vino Nobile can be found for $22 to $33 a bottle.  Reliable labels are produced by venerable estates such as Avignonesi, Boscarelli, and Poliziano, as well as Antinori Breccesca, Salcheto and Fattoria del Cerro